No it won’t. If you have the moneys do it.Slick Goodlin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 10, 2022 2:18 amRealistically I think it’s probably time to send the case to a company like DivCo for welding and re-machining of the oil pump cavity but then it’ll be almost too nice for the plane.
RV Cold Starts
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The only time I think I remember seeing something like this was a SB for the horrible lycoming O-320-H2AD which was notorious for eating cams and lifters because it didn’t get enough oil to them at idle, and recommended not being below 1000 rpm for any length of time. Will see if I can dig it up.
The details of my life are quite inconsequential...
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From my Continental O 200 Operators Manual (Form X30012, dated FAA approved December 1980)
Page 13 Starting engine
Item 8.4 “throttle retard to 1200 Rpm” ie after engine has started
Page 14
Item 1 Pre Takeoff Check
“Maintain engine speed at approximately 900 to 1000 RPM at least 1 minute in warm weather, and as required during cold weather to prevent cavitation in the oil pump and to ensure adequate lubrication”
Page 13 Starting engine
Item 8.4 “throttle retard to 1200 Rpm” ie after engine has started
Page 14
Item 1 Pre Takeoff Check
“Maintain engine speed at approximately 900 to 1000 RPM at least 1 minute in warm weather, and as required during cold weather to prevent cavitation in the oil pump and to ensure adequate lubrication”
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… and that’s exactly how an O-200 should be operated.
I was interested in this
I still see no mention of this critical windage.
Windage is driven by both RPM and oil level in the wet sump. I presume everyone is running oil at max all the time to maximize windage with an air-oil separator?
It’s worth mentioning that everyone else tries really hard to minimize the horsepower-robbing windage that is considered beneficial in GA
I was interested in this
As shown above, the Lycoming has no such problem.prevent cavitation in the oil pump
I still see no mention of this critical windage.
Windage is driven by both RPM and oil level in the wet sump. I presume everyone is running oil at max all the time to maximize windage with an air-oil separator?
It’s worth mentioning that everyone else tries really hard to minimize the horsepower-robbing windage that is considered beneficial in GA
45 / 47 => 95 3/4%
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Lycoming Tech Tips ( an excellent and under-utilized resource IMO) has the following advice in the section titled Extending the Life of Your Engine
“ Avoid rapid acceleration after any cold start-up, and make every effort to maintain a constant speed of about 1000 RPM for several minutes during the initial warm-up period.”
The note specifically references the TIO 540J (ie the Navajo engine) but does say it can be applied to any engine FWIW
“ Avoid rapid acceleration after any cold start-up, and make every effort to maintain a constant speed of about 1000 RPM for several minutes during the initial warm-up period.”
The note specifically references the TIO 540J (ie the Navajo engine) but does say it can be applied to any engine FWIW
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I wish the RV guys could read that.Avoid rapid acceleration after any cold start-up
Exactly! Keep the RPM low after start. This is not rocket science.about 1000 RPM for several minutes during the initial warm-up period
Once the engine has a tiny bit of heat it it, you can then switch to "don't foul the plugs and exhaust guide"
mode, and idle at 1100-1200 RPM with the mixture full lean for max RPM.
Do that until all the CHT's are 200F, then you can run it up to 1700 RPM and check the prop and mags.
After that, all you have to worry about is your oil temp, before takeoff. If you are running multi-vis cat piss,
not an issue - it flows just fine at low temps. But if you are running straight grade, you may have to wait
while the oil circulates through the hot head (and the heat conducts from the hot cylinders to the crankcase)
warming the oil to it's minimum temp for takeoff, which increases with viscosity.
45 / 47 => 95 3/4%
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You should meet this plane. It’s… functional.
…mostly.
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Fixed it! Sort of.Slick Goodlin wrote: ↑Thu Jun 09, 2022 2:32 pmSpeaking of oil pressure, I ain’t got none on the Champ.
Checked the regulator, it’s fine. Checked and cleaned the screen too which was okay. Pulled the oil temp bulb out and pumped the cavity full of oil which ran down through the pump and primed it. The first start had the oil pressure rising to normal after about fifteen seconds of sucking air, the second start saw normal pressure almost instantly. It will lose its prime, I have no doubt about that, it’s just a matter of how long it takes.
Good enough for now. There’s a spare 65 kicking around that needs its crank checked (flew into a post at full throttle) but hopefully is otherwise easily rebuildable.
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It’s good to see you have oil pressure again. That, “Flew into a post at full throttle.” thing sounds like quite a story.
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