Perhaps also lube up all the bearings/hinges etc before you head off and probably wise to block any holes into the plane even if its hangared to keep the mice out.
Parking the ol'gal for a while...
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- Posts: 84
- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 3:29 pm
I just ordered on Ebay some adjustable low current supplies, voltage / amp display
to be able to see what is happening and to adjust the voltage level.
When I look at the Battery Tender, it says nothing about being a "desulfator"
The Oscilloscope pics look good, but there are lots of warnings about
desulfators that don't work.
What did you use for the oscilloscope pics?
to be able to see what is happening and to adjust the voltage level.
When I look at the Battery Tender, it says nothing about being a "desulfator"
The Oscilloscope pics look good, but there are lots of warnings about
desulfators that don't work.
What did you use for the oscilloscope pics?
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- Posts: 1259
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2015 3:00 pm
I have attatched a battery tender Jr. to my motorcycle every time I park it at home since I bought them both in October 2000. Last summer the battery was having difficulty getting the poor beast started. That's a 16 year old battery that came in the bike and was never touched, after I undid the terminals to attatch the plug for the battery tender, then bolted it back on. I suspect this will be the year I have to replace the battery.
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- Posts: 161
- Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 6:26 pm
i would disconnect the battery , and give it to the ame and have him put the smart charger on it once in a while over the year. and what about the "pickling oil?" or storage oil? would you not want the crankcase "full" to overflowing with oil while you are gone for a year? agree with fogging the cyls.
or this http://www.cessnaflyer.org/articles-new ... ation.html
or this http://www.cessnaflyer.org/articles-new ... ation.html
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- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
I think harmonic desulfation is nonsense. The only
way I've been able to de-sulfate is by cooking it out
with very high voltages. Some people swear by epsom
salts (for flooded lead-acid).
I am a fan of Salae logic analyzers (24 Mhz), and I also
have the Digilent scope (100 Mhz). This is a capture
from it, using the LUA scripting language that I ported
to an ARM SOC:
[img width=500 height=295][/img]
10% Camguard is the best inhibiting oil I know of.
We need to work on having more eclectic discussions.
way I've been able to de-sulfate is by cooking it out
with very high voltages. Some people swear by epsom
salts (for flooded lead-acid).
I am a fan of Salae logic analyzers (24 Mhz), and I also
have the Digilent scope (100 Mhz). This is a capture
from it, using the LUA scripting language that I ported
to an ARM SOC:
[img width=500 height=295][/img]
10% Camguard is the best inhibiting oil I know of.
We need to work on having more eclectic discussions.
If you have an AGM battery, such as an Odyssey, you need to treat it a bit differently. They need a sustained higher voltage to fully charge. A regular battery charger will not work. Once they discharge to a certain point, they will not hold a charge until they get the high voltage full charge, although a regular charger will work to get you going. The good news is that once fully charged, they can sit for a very long time without discharging.
I see that Battery Tender has models available specifically for AGM batteries.
I see that Battery Tender has models available specifically for AGM batteries.
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- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
Correct. Many "smart" (constant voltage) chargers will
have a "cold/agm" switch on the front, which will bump
the final voltage up from 14.4 to 15 or thereabouts.
Depending upon the temperature, the magic voltage for
a flooded lead acid battery is 14.4VDC - anything above
that will result in gassing. That's actually not a problem
as long as you promptly refill it with distilled water. The
rule with flooded lead-acid batteries is to never, ever
expose the plates with low fluid level, because they
will be damaged and it will never be as strong again.
It's important to realize that there are many different
battery technologies now, and they all like different
treatment.
However, it's also important to realize that once
installed in a vehicle, they all get the same treatment
from the regulator, which is generally 13.5 to 14.5V.
have a "cold/agm" switch on the front, which will bump
the final voltage up from 14.4 to 15 or thereabouts.
Depending upon the temperature, the magic voltage for
a flooded lead acid battery is 14.4VDC - anything above
that will result in gassing. That's actually not a problem
as long as you promptly refill it with distilled water. The
rule with flooded lead-acid batteries is to never, ever
expose the plates with low fluid level, because they
will be damaged and it will never be as strong again.
It's important to realize that there are many different
battery technologies now, and they all like different
treatment.
However, it's also important to realize that once
installed in a vehicle, they all get the same treatment
from the regulator, which is generally 13.5 to 14.5V.
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- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
PS I was a moron, and once left the master switch
on (no gyros to whine) with a double-size Odyssey
battery. Ran it flat. Smart charger wouldn't touch
it, because it saw 0V or an open circuit (jumpers
not connected). Had to bring it back to life with
a constant-current 100 amp charger. Manually
brought it back up to 15V over and over again
during the period of about a week. After a while
there was enough voltage to get a smart charger
working on it, and it slowly brought it back to
15V and it seems ok now.
on (no gyros to whine) with a double-size Odyssey
battery. Ran it flat. Smart charger wouldn't touch
it, because it saw 0V or an open circuit (jumpers
not connected). Had to bring it back to life with
a constant-current 100 amp charger. Manually
brought it back up to 15V over and over again
during the period of about a week. After a while
there was enough voltage to get a smart charger
working on it, and it slowly brought it back to
15V and it seems ok now.
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- Posts: 161
- Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 6:26 pm
Ya, you must be the only "good stick", in history, to leave a master switch on, and hop out of your plane. Perhaps slavish compliance with a 2 page "checklist" would help? LOL
I leave my beacon wired to a pullable breaker. I have been saved a few times by the backwards glance, or someone running after me and pointing out there are lights flashing on the plane i just left......LOL
hard to blame it on the co pilot when you are the only one on board....
I leave my beacon wired to a pullable breaker. I have been saved a few times by the backwards glance, or someone running after me and pointing out there are lights flashing on the plane i just left......LOL
hard to blame it on the co pilot when you are the only one on board....
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