Scudrunners

Just took the wings off and started stripping the fabric this weekend. Does anyone have any suggestions for modifications while it's apart. I'm thinking about vortex generators, a baggage door and 4 point harnesses. It still has the original wood spars and they still look like new so I'm probably going to keep them.

Check very carefully for cracks in the wood spars
especially at the strut attach points.  Make sure
that you have many many inspection rings glued
in for future inspections.

Personally I prefer the metal wings on the Citabria
and Decathlon, but I have never owned either - I
just fly them.

While you're working on it, consider replacing
that tank of a 35 amp-hour lead acid battery
with that weird plastic top, with a lightweight
battery.  I don't think they ever used that stupid
aluminum wiring in the Citabria, so you don't
need to change that, but you should check the
heavy copper wire for condition of insulation
and connectors which need to be tight to avoid
contact resistance.  I would replace the master
solenoid just because it has moving parts.

Inspect especially the lower longerons for
corrosion.  Any moving parts (tail controls)
should be inspected and replaced if there is
any doubt as to their condition, because this
is probably the only time in the next 40 years
that they're going to be really well looked at.

I have been told by other people that the metal wings tighten up the feel of the plane. I've been looking into the millman spars and and leading edges. This is the first time the plane has been apart since 1983 and so far no major corrosion just a little surface rust. the only other thing I need to address is the panel. It has an ancient radio and transponder that are going to get replaced with a good modern comm. As far as the battery I would really like to put a light weight battery in it but I don't think any of them are certified. The other option I have is to put the plane in owner maintenance to open up some of my options.  The citabria line is not very well supported by stc's. All the wiring will be new when it gets reassembled. I dont mess with old wiring or hardware.

Oh yeah - epoxy paint the tubing.

Personally, I'm a fan of powder coating:

[img width=500 height=262][/img]

PS  See if you can push the paper on a lightweight
battery, a lightweight B&C starter, and a lightweight
PlanePower 70 amp alternator, and a solid-state voltage
regulator with built-in over-voltage cutout.  So much
power, so much weight savings.

Was reading about powder coating recently and one should use caution on what they powder coat. I suppose it has its place but there can be some concerns on certain items. From a aircraft type forum from one of their most knowledgable members,




"[font=Lucida Grande][size=13px]While on this subject, I'd encourage folks to avoid getting into situations where they are "re-inventing" the wheel. There are lots of modern processes that have their advantages in certain modern applications. But just because a new process exists, doesn't mean it should be applied to everything ever made. An example that comes to mind is the number of engine mounts I've seen lately that their owner's proudly display with the comments that they have been [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)][font=Lucida Grande][/size][size=13px]powder[/size][font=Lucida Grande][size=13px]-coated.[color=rgb(188, 42, 77)][font=Lucida Gfrande][/size][size=13px]Powder[font=Lucida Grande][/size][size=13px] coating is a process by which a part is blasted clean, then electrostatically charged, sprayed with fine plastic [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)][font=Lucida Grande][/size][size=13px]powder[font=Lucida Grande][/size][size=13px] (in the desired color) and then baked in an oven to fuse the plastic coating. It has a pleasing, fresh-painted look even years later. Plastic is a great barrier to the elements when it's not mechanically disturbed and it will retain that nice glossy look.[/size][/font]
[font=Lucida Grande][size=13px]Unfortunately, [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)]powder[/color]-coating will also allow the metal beneath to crack and the surface may still remain unblemished. A critical weld or tube may crack and not be revealed. This is not a place to use [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)]powder[/color] coatings. Neither are cylinders or other engine cases, in my opinion.
There are several reputable engine "re-builders" who generously [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)]powder[/color]-[color=rgb(188, 42, 77)]coat[/color] their work in all the colors of the rainbow as a marketing scheme. [color=rgb(188, 42, 77)]Powder[/color] coating insulates a hot part from releasing it's heat to the atmosphere. I don't think that's a good idea, and if it's not part of an FAA-approved process then it's probably illegal. I don't know of any engine manufacturer who approves it.
So, be wary of new things that haven't been thoroughly tested and approved for their purposes,...including protective coatings."[/size][/font]

Have recovered 4 Citabrias over the years. They are a very easy airplane to recover
There is an AD that requires inspection of the rib nails that go into the wood spars
Have your mechanic verify that the work was done prior to recover or you will end up with a
bunch of extra inspection panels that you don t usually need .

re: powder coating ....

Your buddy may be shitting bricks about cracked
rocker arm covers.  Not a problem for me in over
40 years.

[img width=500 height=485][/img]

This is the same guy that doesn't like stainless
hardware for non-structural, because he says it
destroys aluminum, right?

I'm glad they are easy to recover. I'm working with an experienced AME that has lots of experience with fabric covering but I will be doing a lot of the labour intensive stuff myself.
I like powder coat for cosmetic things like valve cover, definitely wouldn't want to have the cylinders coated. As far as cracks my experience has been that you will see the coating crack or separate around the crack just like with paint.

The most important decision - is what process?

The oldest is nitrate/butrate - but most people
don't do it any more.  Easiest to patch though.

Everyone loves the gloss of a urethane topcoat,
and it sure is a lot tougher - to repair.

Then there's that water-based system.  I know
a guy uses it, he likes it.

Can't recommend Stitts.  Might be ok on a slow
airplane.  Won't tighten up - balloons.

I'm going to be using stewart systems for the recover. I have looked at a few planes locally that have been covered using this system and they seem to be holding up ok. My AME says it's a bit different than the older systems but its fairly user friendly. I've watched the videos and am reading the manual right now he's used it before so that won't be a problem.