nitrate/butyrate is best for repair. But I would
only use it for a hangared airplane. I hate to
admit it, but it's not as tough and doesn't handle
the UV as well as a urethane topcoat.
I would not use Stitts/Polyfiber on anything that
went faster than 80 mph (eg an ultralight) because
it just won't tighten up and balloons at speed. I
have several friends that regret using it, because
of this.
Ceconite/nitrate/butytrate works for me:
[url=
http://www.randolphaircraft.com]
www.randolphaircraft.com[/url]
PS It's important to choose a process and to stick
with it. No freestyling. Ask Steve Wittman. Incredibly
he survived air racing in the 1930's, only to have an
airport named after him, which is never good.
Remember immediately after his crash they blamed
it on wake turbulence from a bomber? What BS:
[url=
https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=35828]
https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=35828[/url]
[quote]REPORTS FROM GROUND WITNESSES, NONE OF WHOM ACTUALLY SAW THE AIRPLANE, VARIED FROM HEARING A HIGH REVVING ENGINE TO AN EXPLOSION. EXAMINATION OF THE WRECKAGE REVEALED THAT THE AIRPLANE EXPERIENCED AN IN-FLIGHT BREAKUP.
DAMAGE AND STRUCTURAL DEFORMATION WAS INDICATIVE OF AILERON-WING FLUTTER. WING FABRIC DOPE WAS DISTRESSED OR MISSING ON THE AFT INBOARD PORTION OF THE LEFT WING UPPER SURFACE AND ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE TOP OF THE MAIN SPAR. LARGE AREAS OF DOPE WERE ALSO MISSING FROM THE LEFT WING UNDERSURFACE.
THE ENTIRE FABRIC COVERING ON THE UPPER AND LOWER SURFACES OF THE RIGHT WING HAD DELAMINATED FROM THE WING PLYWOOD SKIN.
THE DOPED FINISH WAS SEVERELY DISTRESSED AND MOTTLED.
[size=18pt]THE FABRIC COVERING HAD NOT BEEN INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE POLY-FIBER COVERING AND PAINT MANUAL[/size];
THE PLYWOOD WAS NOT TREATED WITH THE POLY-BRUSH COMPOUND.
[b]CAUSE: AILERON-WING FLUTTER INDUCED BY SEPARATION AT THE TRAILING EDGE OF AN UNBONDED PORTION OF WING FABRIC AT AN AILERON WING STATION.
THE DEBONDING OF THE WING FABRIC WAS A RESULT OF IMPROPER INSTALLATION[/b].[/quote]
The area inside the prop slipstream is the most
challenging. Be sure to drop the stitches down
to one inch, and don't spare the rand-o-bond to
try to make it stick.