Ive been asked to do some fed time for approximately a year, which means I've parked the Stinson. I have an all expenses paid trip to the Middle East.
The annual was up in October, and had no plans of insuring and paying for annual, only to fly it for a month or two.
As of right now the local A&P (AME to youse guys) fogged the cylinders and we drained and changed the oil (+ filter).
Since it'll be in the hangar until early spring if 2018, should I raise it off the tires as well? Any other tips or tricks?
Parking the ol'gal for a while...
[quote]Ive been asked to do some fed time for approximately a year, which means I've parked the Stinson. I have an all expenses paid trip to the Middle East.
[/quote]
Iraq? Take care over there.
[/quote]
Iraq? Take care over there.
-
- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
10% Camguard in fresh oil, and a 0.75 amp battery tender jr.
[img width=500 height=500]http://media.chiefaircraft.com/media/ca ... mguard.jpg[/img]
[img width=500 height=500]http://cdnmedia.endeavorsuite.com/image ... r%20JR.jpg[/img]
Don't worry about the tires, they'll get round again after
you taxi it.
Enjoy your winter tropical vacation. I sure as hell hope
you don't have to pay tax when you're there.
When you get home, consider removing the top plugs
and cranking it over to get some oil pressure on the
gauge. Then put the top plugs back in and start it.
[img width=500 height=500]http://media.chiefaircraft.com/media/ca ... mguard.jpg[/img]
[img width=500 height=500]http://cdnmedia.endeavorsuite.com/image ... r%20JR.jpg[/img]
Don't worry about the tires, they'll get round again after
you taxi it.
Enjoy your winter tropical vacation. I sure as hell hope
you don't have to pay tax when you're there.
When you get home, consider removing the top plugs
and cranking it over to get some oil pressure on the
gauge. Then put the top plugs back in and start it.
Yep, tax free... all going towards a plot of land to build a combo grass strip and shooting range. 1000m will be perfect for both....
I removed the battery and will drain the fuel. Haven't done that yet.
Thanks for the camgaurd suggestion. I'll pick some up this afternoon.
I removed the battery and will drain the fuel. Haven't done that yet.
Thanks for the camgaurd suggestion. I'll pick some up this afternoon.
-
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 9:56 pm
[quote author=Nark link=topic=5274.msg13526#msg13526 date=1483384648]
Yep, tax free... all going towards a plot of land to build a combo grass strip and shooting range. 1000m will be perfect for both....
[/quote]
You are obviously my kind of people ;D
Stay safe in the sandbox.
Yep, tax free... all going towards a plot of land to build a combo grass strip and shooting range. 1000m will be perfect for both....
[/quote]
You are obviously my kind of people ;D
Stay safe in the sandbox.
-
- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
[quote]drain the fuel[/quote]
Yikes. If you are running 100LL no problem, but
if you are running mogas, get it out of there.
I wouldn't have the balls to add sta-bil (or
something better) to an airplane with mogas
in it. You just don't know what's going to
deteriorate from whatever solvents are in
the fuel additive.
This shit is incredible. It dissolves varnish
and stabilizes mogas in all sorts of troublesome
little engines that don't run in the winter:
[img]http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcssto ... i_larg.jpg[/img]
100LL doesn't turn to varnish like mogas, but
I have seen it go cloudy and cause hard starting
after years of sitting. In that case, you can drain
it and replace it immediately before flight.
Yikes. If you are running 100LL no problem, but
if you are running mogas, get it out of there.
I wouldn't have the balls to add sta-bil (or
something better) to an airplane with mogas
in it. You just don't know what's going to
deteriorate from whatever solvents are in
the fuel additive.
This shit is incredible. It dissolves varnish
and stabilizes mogas in all sorts of troublesome
little engines that don't run in the winter:
[img]http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcssto ... i_larg.jpg[/img]
100LL doesn't turn to varnish like mogas, but
I have seen it go cloudy and cause hard starting
after years of sitting. In that case, you can drain
it and replace it immediately before flight.
-
- Posts: 384
- Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 1:43 am
Colonol,
Have you had good luck keeping the small battery tender plugged in?
I had one installed on my motorcycle last year, and it cooked the battery...
This year I just disconnected it, and will charge a couple times throughout the winter as Ive done in the past..
Have you had good luck keeping the small battery tender plugged in?
I had one installed on my motorcycle last year, and it cooked the battery...
This year I just disconnected it, and will charge a couple times throughout the winter as Ive done in the past..
-
- Posts: 3450
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:31 am
Was it a name-brand Battery Tender?
There are two different kinds of battery chargers:
1) constant current, and
2) constant voltage
The really cheap ones ($10 to $20) - which can come
in handy - are [b]constant current[/b]. I suspect you had an
AC/DC adapter that converted 120VAC to 12VDC at an
amp or two of output. Those are great if you manually
monitor the voltage with a voltmeter and pull them off
when you hit 15V or whatever. However if you leave
them on too long, they can cook the battery with excessive
voltage.
The expensive ones ($40) are [b]constant voltage[/b], like
the Battery Tender. As the volts go up, the amps go
down, so the battery doesn't get cooked. You can
leave them on permanently. I have vastly simplified
what goes on, but you get the idea. It has a regulator
like on your engine, to control the voltage. If you
record it, the charging voltage might look something
like this:
[img width=500 height=419]http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Porsc ... ithm-L.jpg[/img]
Constant current is open loop, constant voltage is
closed loop. Closed loop control is almost all the
time superior. Except when it's not smart enough
and you get a oscillation going, and you have to
drop back to open loop to get anything productive
done.
I have bought, no shit, at least 20 Battery Tender
Jr's in the past few years. They are perfect for
almost any vehicle battery that isn't in use.
Hope this helps. A very long time ago, I was an
electrical engineer, but really, no one gives a shit
about stuff that happened so many decades ago.
It's funny though, kids are amazed when you show
them this:
[img width=500 height=167][/img]
This was pretty cool. 13 microseconds through a Cortex A-5 SOC:
[img width=500 height=109][/img]
Mark 1 is the end of a digitized automotive SENT going into the SOC.
Mark 2 is the start of a SPI transaction going out of the SOC to
a D-to-A voltage converter.
Line 5 (green) is the DAC transitioning to the analog voltage
specified in the digitized SENT waveform that I decoded with
a FSM in the A-5.
That is fucking cool, even for a TC big belly from Tower C.
There are two different kinds of battery chargers:
1) constant current, and
2) constant voltage
The really cheap ones ($10 to $20) - which can come
in handy - are [b]constant current[/b]. I suspect you had an
AC/DC adapter that converted 120VAC to 12VDC at an
amp or two of output. Those are great if you manually
monitor the voltage with a voltmeter and pull them off
when you hit 15V or whatever. However if you leave
them on too long, they can cook the battery with excessive
voltage.
The expensive ones ($40) are [b]constant voltage[/b], like
the Battery Tender. As the volts go up, the amps go
down, so the battery doesn't get cooked. You can
leave them on permanently. I have vastly simplified
what goes on, but you get the idea. It has a regulator
like on your engine, to control the voltage. If you
record it, the charging voltage might look something
like this:
[img width=500 height=419]http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Porsc ... ithm-L.jpg[/img]
Constant current is open loop, constant voltage is
closed loop. Closed loop control is almost all the
time superior. Except when it's not smart enough
and you get a oscillation going, and you have to
drop back to open loop to get anything productive
done.
I have bought, no shit, at least 20 Battery Tender
Jr's in the past few years. They are perfect for
almost any vehicle battery that isn't in use.
Hope this helps. A very long time ago, I was an
electrical engineer, but really, no one gives a shit
about stuff that happened so many decades ago.
It's funny though, kids are amazed when you show
them this:
[img width=500 height=167][/img]
This was pretty cool. 13 microseconds through a Cortex A-5 SOC:
[img width=500 height=109][/img]
Mark 1 is the end of a digitized automotive SENT going into the SOC.
Mark 2 is the start of a SPI transaction going out of the SOC to
a D-to-A voltage converter.
Line 5 (green) is the DAC transitioning to the analog voltage
specified in the digitized SENT waveform that I decoded with
a FSM in the A-5.
That is fucking cool, even for a TC big belly from Tower C.
-
- Posts: 1349
- Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:08 pm
Stay safe over there bro, ill watch my Analytics for a spike in hits from "unknown region"
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 0 Replies
- 1575 Views
-
Last post by Scudrunner
-
- 0 Replies
- 4176 Views
-
Last post by Colonel