Here’s a fun one
Tweeters and maybe a sub woofer.
Next lower it with some hydraulics and of course Dayton rims.
Time to slap a new Pioneer in there someI bought a plane.
- Scudrunner
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5 out of 2 Pilots are Dyslexic.
- Colonel
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- Location: Over The Runway
Not on the ones I've seen. Again, check for contact resistance upstreamcan those be adjusted to correct voltage
dropping the voltage. BPF is right that bad grounds can also cause problems.
Ground biases can even cause nasty current loops.
I remember an airplane that had no ground strap from the engine to the
airframe. It cranked slowly, because all of the starter amps on the ground
side had to travel through all the tiny instrument and engine controls. Not
easy to diagnose. It takes a particular skill to notice what isn't there.
45 / 47 => 95 3/4%
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Did you mean, “Almost as good?”Big Pistons Forever wrote: Fri Aug 13, 2021 3:19 amI once saw a C 172 with an exhaust manifold that was almost as bad. It had more beads than an Indian Princess. I guess the guy just kept on welding the cracks and then kept on wondering why it just cracked again a bit further down.David MacRay wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 5:53 pm Hey Scud, I got that exhaust manifold welded up for you.
4F321F75-1E7D-49AF-BE9F-3CB1B746E1CC.jpeg
- Colonel
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- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2020 10:02 pm
- Location: Over The Runway
Hey Dave. I'm betting you can weld. Why not get certified by TC and start welding aircraft/repairs?
That would be a really useful side gig.
I tell people to get a death wheel and a MiG from Harbor Freight and they look at me funny. Hey,
if you can reshape metal, you're some kind of wizard!
That would be a really useful side gig.
I tell people to get a death wheel and a MiG from Harbor Freight and they look at me funny. Hey,
if you can reshape metal, you're some kind of wizard!
45 / 47 => 95 3/4%
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- Posts: 824
- Joined: Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:16 am
Since I may never get it together enough to pass the CPL written.
I’m thinking I should probably just replace more panels on old cars. Then nobody’s looking for me when the thing falls out of the sky because of an unrelated issue after it leaves my shop. Just need a shop…
I’m thinking I should probably just replace more panels on old cars. Then nobody’s looking for me when the thing falls out of the sky because of an unrelated issue after it leaves my shop. Just need a shop…
- Scudrunner
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Think I’ll start my search in here and work my way back.
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5 out of 2 Pilots are Dyslexic.
- Colonel
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- Location: Over The Runway
Reminds me of Mike Potter's Sabre.
Ok. You are operating in a target-rich environment. One at a time, undo the nut
and clean the connector and terminal. I would replace the lock washer. Scrub
the connector clean and hose it and the post down with contact cleaner, polish
it with a toothbrush. Move onto the next until you've done them all.
Let's hope it's not resistance inside the crimp of the connector. That is generally
a problem with dissimilar metals ... to save weight, Piper used aluminum wire
from the battery which was a disaster. It cycled over time, and developed
corrosion inside the crimp. You don't have that problem - you will have good
old copper wire. Metallurgically speaking, copper is the magical metal. Better
than silver or gold IMHO. If you see resistance in the crimp, if possible entirely
replace the wire, with a new one with new connectors on both ends. It's kind
of ghetto to replace the connector on an old wire (but we've all done it). That
old insulation is due for replacement.
I would replace the discrete components. See the wiring diagram, order new
replacements (eg for those electrolytic capacitors that I see).
PS I know I'm strange, but I would have to diagnose that with a voltmeter.
Measure the voltage at the regulator across the black and the red wires,
then chase the hot side upstream. Look for a sudden voltage increase. That
will identify the connection with the resistance causing the voltage drop.
DC is like plumbing. There's a lot to it, but you can learn it all in one day:
1) poop runs downhill
2) cold goes on the right
3) payday is on friday
someplace for your tools / parts / supplies. A bench grinder. A vice. Maybe
even a drill press? Couple of angle grinders (one with a stone, one with a cutoff
wheel). A MIG welder. First things first. I was a weird kid - I started collecting
tools before I was 10 years old. I couldn't afford much at first - mostly screwdrivers,
pliers, wrenches and a crappy little toolbox. 50 years later, I still have some of
the tools, and more screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets than you would
believe. I personally love my 3/4 inch drive, four foot breaker bar:
I remember putting a prop on a Harvard. It needed 8 million foot pounds of torque
or something like that. You needed an 800 lb gorilla on the end of a 40 foot bar.
There was a dumb movie recently, these cops were looking around the house of
a pilot who had been killed. They said, "Where's the workbench? The gun safe?"
Ok. You are operating in a target-rich environment. One at a time, undo the nut
and clean the connector and terminal. I would replace the lock washer. Scrub
the connector clean and hose it and the post down with contact cleaner, polish
it with a toothbrush. Move onto the next until you've done them all.
Let's hope it's not resistance inside the crimp of the connector. That is generally
a problem with dissimilar metals ... to save weight, Piper used aluminum wire
from the battery which was a disaster. It cycled over time, and developed
corrosion inside the crimp. You don't have that problem - you will have good
old copper wire. Metallurgically speaking, copper is the magical metal. Better
than silver or gold IMHO. If you see resistance in the crimp, if possible entirely
replace the wire, with a new one with new connectors on both ends. It's kind
of ghetto to replace the connector on an old wire (but we've all done it). That
old insulation is due for replacement.
I would replace the discrete components. See the wiring diagram, order new
replacements (eg for those electrolytic capacitors that I see).
PS I know I'm strange, but I would have to diagnose that with a voltmeter.
Measure the voltage at the regulator across the black and the red wires,
then chase the hot side upstream. Look for a sudden voltage increase. That
will identify the connection with the resistance causing the voltage drop.
DC is like plumbing. There's a lot to it, but you can learn it all in one day:
1) poop runs downhill
2) cold goes on the right
3) payday is on friday
Ok, that's the first thing to work on. You need light, a bench, 120/240V power,Just need a shop
someplace for your tools / parts / supplies. A bench grinder. A vice. Maybe
even a drill press? Couple of angle grinders (one with a stone, one with a cutoff
wheel). A MIG welder. First things first. I was a weird kid - I started collecting
tools before I was 10 years old. I couldn't afford much at first - mostly screwdrivers,
pliers, wrenches and a crappy little toolbox. 50 years later, I still have some of
the tools, and more screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets than you would
believe. I personally love my 3/4 inch drive, four foot breaker bar:
I remember putting a prop on a Harvard. It needed 8 million foot pounds of torque
or something like that. You needed an 800 lb gorilla on the end of a 40 foot bar.
There was a dumb movie recently, these cops were looking around the house of
a pilot who had been killed. They said, "Where's the workbench? The gun safe?"
45 / 47 => 95 3/4%
- Scudrunner
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Took the family for a rip yesterday and the voltages have all settled down. The rear one is steady at 28.1 and the front is the same around 27.7 which makes me happy.
however the front alt not charging is still flicking which leads me suspect the connections to/from the alternator and or the indication lights.
I think Ill have some time next week to start tracing those wires and will update.
however the front alt not charging is still flicking which leads me suspect the connections to/from the alternator and or the indication lights.
I think Ill have some time next week to start tracing those wires and will update.
5 out of 2 Pilots are Dyslexic.
- Scudrunner
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I think I’ll be adding one at next annual, until then fly it as much as I can.
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5 out of 2 Pilots are Dyslexic.
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